Indian chintz

Indian chintz, Dyers and painters of the Coromandel Coast
Jacket, shawl and skirt: anonymous / Photo: Hugo Maertens, Bruges, CC BY-SA 3.0

Painted and mordant-dyed cotton from the Coromandel Coast, so colourfast and cheap that Europe banned it.

The East India companies imported chintz in such quantities that France and England banned it around 1700 to protect their weavers. The bans led Europe to learn cotton printing. Examples are in the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Metropolitan Museum.

Materials: Cotton, vegetable dyes (indigo, madder) with mordants

Manufacture: The pattern was drawn and painted by hand with mordants and wax in many stages before dyeing.

The tree of life with winding branches and exotic flowers, often on a palampore bedcover.

The clear reds and blues that did not fade in washing.