Paisley shawl

The teardrop figure from Kashmir that Scottish looms turned into the fashionable pattern of the 19th century.

Shawls from Kashmir came into fashion in Europe around 1800, but they were very expensive. Weavers in the Scottish town of Paisley and in France began making imitations, and the Jacquard loom made them cheap.

The pattern took its name from the town. The wide skirts of the crinoline in the 1850s suited the large shawls, and when fashion changed in the 1870s demand fell quickly.

Materials: Wool, or wool and silk

Manufacture: Woven on Jacquard looms in Paisley in Scotland and in France, after hand-woven shawls from Kashmir.

The teardrop figure – boteh – with a curled tip.

Dense patterning in many colours and a wide border.

Long loose threads on the back, a sign of machine weaving.