Trench coat

The officer’s coat from the trenches that became a civilian classic.

In the First World War British officers wore a short waterproof coat in the trenches, and the name trench coat stuck. Both Burberry and Aquascutum have claimed to be first.

After the war the coat went civilian, and films of the 1940s made it a symbol of detectives and reporters. Its basic form has hardly changed since, and the classic beige gabardine coats are still made in the same way.

Materials: Dense cotton gabardine, often proofed; lining

Manufacture: Factory-made in large runs; Burberry and Aquascutum are the best-known makers.

Double-breasted with a belt, epaulettes and a loose flap on one shoulder.

D-rings on the belt, by tradition for equipment.

The label’s appearance, often the best way to date the coat.